Ukuthakazelisa okukhulu ngezintaba, hhayi njengezinto zokudweba izindawo noma izindawo zokuhamba, kwaqala ngekhulu le-19. Lokhu kwakuyi-okuthiwa yi "Golden Age of Mountaineering", lapho izintaba zazingekude, zingaphakeme kakhulu, futhi zingabi yingozi kakhulu. Kodwa nakhona lapho kwavela izisulu zokuqala zokuqwala izintaba. Ngemuva kwakho konke, umphumela wokuphakama kumuntu awukacwaningisiswa kahle, akukhiqizwanga izingubo nezicathulo eziqeqeshiwe, futhi yilabo kuphela abavakashele iFar North ababazi ngokudla okunempilo.
Ngokwanda kokukhuphuka kwentaba kuya kubantu, ukumasha kwayo emhlabeni wonke kwaqala. Ngenxa yalokho, izintaba ezincintisanayo zaqala ukubeka engcupheni impilo. Futhi-ke imishini yakamuva, okokusebenza okuhlala isikhathi eside kakhulu, kanye nokudla okunekhalori eliphezulu kakhulu kuyekile ukusiza. Ngaphansi kwesiqubulo esithi "Ngokuphakeme ngangokunokwenzeka, futhi ngokushesha okukhulu", inqwaba yabagibeli yaqala ukufa. Amagama abagibeli abadumile abaqede ikhulu labo embhedeni wasekhaya angabalwa ngakwesinye isandla. Kusele ukukhokhela isibindi sabo futhi babone lapho abagibeli bezintaba befa kaningi. Kubukeka kungafaneleki ukuthuthukisa inqubo "yokubulala" kwezintaba, ngakho kweziyishumi eziphezulu eziyingozi zitholakala ngokulandelana okungahleliwe.
1. I-Everest (8848 m, isiqongo esiphakeme kunazo zonke emhlabeni) siphezulu ohlwini ngenxa yokuhlonipha isihloko sentaba ephakeme kunazo zonke eMhlabeni nobukhulu balabo abafuna ukunqoba le ntaba. Ubuningi futhi bukhulisa ukufa kwabantu abaningi. Kuyo yonke imizila yokwenyuka, ungabona izidumbu zabampofu, abangakaze babe nethuba lokwehla bevela e-Everest. Manje sezicishe zibe ngama-300 yazo. Imizimba ayisuswa - iyabiza kakhulu futhi iyinkinga.
Manje, abantu abaningi banqoba i-Everest ngosuku ngesizini, futhi kwathatha iminyaka engaphezu kwengu-30 ukwenza ukwenyuka kokuqala okuyimpumelelo. AbaseBrithani bayiqala le ndaba ngo-1922, bayiqeda ngo-1953. Umlando walolo hambo waziwa kahle futhi usuchazwe kaningi. Njengomphumela womsebenzi wabagibeli abayishumi nambili kanye noSherpas abangama-30, u-Ed Hillary noSherpas Tenzing Norgay baba ngabanqobi bokuqala be-Everest ngoMeyi 29.
2. UDhaulagiri I (8 167 m, 7) isikhathi eside ayizange idonse amehlo abagibeli bezintaba. Le ntaba - isiqongo esikhulu semvula yezintaba eziyishumi nanye ngaphezulu ezinokuphakama kwama-7 kuya ku-8,000 m - yaba yinto yokufunda kanye nendawo yemikhankaso kuphela ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-1950. Ithambeka elisenyakatho-mpumalanga kuphela elingafinyeleleka kuma-ascents. Ngemuva kwemizamo eyisikhombisa engaphumelelanga yokuphumelela, iqembu lomhlaba wonke lafinyelelwa, okuqine kakhulu kulo kwakungu-Kurt Dieberger wase-Austria.
UDimberger wayesanda kunqoba iBroad Peak noHerman Buhl. Ehlatshwe umxhwele isitayela somuntu odumile, uKurt waqinisekisa amaqabane akhe ukuba benze imashi baya engqungqutheleni evela ekamu endaweni ephakeme ngamamitha angu-7 400. Abaqoshayo basindiswa yisimo sezulu esivame ukonakala. Ngemuva kwamamitha ayi-400 wokuphakama kwaqhamuka i-squall enamandla, kwathi iqembu labalindisango abathathu nabagibeli abane babuyela emuva. Ngemuva kokubonisana, bamisa ikamu lesithupha endaweni ephakeme ngamamitha ayi-7 800. Ukusuka lapho, uDimberger, u-Ernst Forrer, u-Albin Schelbert noSherpas bakhuphukela engqungqutheleni ngoMeyi 13, 1960. UDimberger, owayeshaye iminwe yakhe ngesikhathi sokuhlaselwa kungaphumelelanga, wagcizelela ukuthi lonke lolu hambo lwenyukele eDhaulagiri, oluthathe izinsuku eziyishumi. Ukunqotshwa kweDhaulagiri kwaba yisibonelo senhlangano elungile yohambo lokuvimbezela, lapho ikhono labaqali lisekelwa ukubekwa kwemizila ngesikhathi, ukulethwa kwempahla nokuhlelwa kwamakamu.
3. I-Annapurna (8091 m, 10) iyisiqongo esikhulu se-Himalaya massif enegama elifanayo, equkethe izinkulungwane eziyisishiyagalombili. Intaba inzima kakhulu ukukhuphuka usuka endaweni yokubuka yobuchwepheshe - ingxenye yokugcina yokwenyuka ayinqotshwanga eceleni kommango, kepha ngezansi nje kwayo, okungukuthi, ingozi yokuwa noma yokuhlaselwa i-avalanche iphezulu kakhulu. Ngo-2104, u-Annapurna wabulala izimpilo zabantu abangu-39 ngasikhathi sinye. Sekukonke, ngokwezibalo, bonke abagibeli besithathu bayashabalala emithambekeni yale ntaba.
Abokuqala ukunqoba u-Annapurna ngo-1950 kwakunguMaurice Herzog noLouis Lachenal, ababa ngababili abathusayo bohambo oluhleleke kahle lwaseFrance. Ngokomthetho, inhlangano enhle kuphela esindise izimpilo zabo bobabili. U-Lachenal no-Erzog baya engxenyeni yokugcina yokwenyuka ngamabhuzu akhanyayo, kanti u-Erzog naye ulahlekelwe ama-mittens akhe ekubuyeni. Kuphela isibindi nokuzinikela kozakwabo uGaston Rebuffa noLionel Terray, ababehamba nabanqobi bale ngqungquthela bengathi sebeshonile ngenxa yokukhathala kanye nesithwathwa kusukela ekamu lokuhlasela kuya ekamu (ngokuhlala ubusuku bonke eqhweni), kwasindisa u-Erzog noLachenal. Kwakunodokotela enkanjini eyayikwazi ukunquma iminwe nezinzwane khona lapho.
4. UKanchenjunga (8586 m, 3), njengo-Nanga Parbat, ngaphambi kweMpi Yezwe Yesibili kudonse amehlo abagibeli ikakhulukazi baseJalimane. Bahlola izindonga ezintathu zale ntaba, futhi zontathu izikhathi zehluleka. Futhi ngemuva kwempi, iBhutan yavala imingcele yayo, futhi abagibeli basala nomzila owodwa wokunqoba uKanchenjunga - oseningizimu.
Imiphumela yocwaningo lwodonga yayidumaza - kwakukhona inguzunga yeqhwa enkulu enkabeni yayo - ngakho-ke ngo-1955 abaseBrithani babiza umkhankaso wabo ngokuthi wuhambo lokuqashelwa, nakuba ngokwakhiwa nangezinto zokusebenza kwakungafani neze nokuhlonishwa.
UKanchenjunga. Inguzunga yeqhwa ibonakala kahle maphakathi nendawo
Entabeni, abagibeli kanye noSherpas benza ngendlela efanayo nohambo lwango-1953 e-Everest: ukuhlonishwa, ukubheka indlela etholakele, ukukhuphuka noma ukuhlehla, kuya ngomphumela. Ukulungiselela okunjalo kuthatha isikhathi esithe xaxa, kepha kugcina amandla nempilo yabagibeli, kubanike ithuba lokuphumula ekamu eliyisisekelo. Ngenxa yalokhu, ama-25 uGeorge Bend noJoe Brown baphuma enkanjini engenhla futhi bahlanganisa ibanga eliya phezulu. Bekufanele bashintshane ngokusika izinyathelo eqhweni, bese uBrown akhuphuka ngamamitha ayisithupha ukuya phezulu adonse uBenda ngebhande. Ngemuva kosuku, besendleleni, iqembu lesibili lokuhlaselwa: uNorman Hardy noTony Streeter.
Kulezi zinsuku sekubekwe imizila eyishumi nambili kuKanchenjunga, kepha ayikho neyodwa kuzo engathathwa njengelula futhi enokwethenjelwa, ngakho-ke ukufela ukholo kwentaba kugcwaliswa njalo.
5. Chogori (8614 m, 2), njengesiqongo sesibili somhlaba, sahlaselwa kusukela ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-20. Isikhathi esingaphezu kwengxenye yekhulu leminyaka, le ngqungquthela enobunzima kwezobuchwepheshe iyekise abagibeli ekuzinqobeni. Kwaba ngo-1954 kuphela lapho amalungu ohambo lwase-Italy uLino Lacedelli no-Achille Compagnoni baba ngamaphayona endlela eya engqungqutheleni, eyayibizwa nge-K2 ngaleso sikhathi.
Njengoba kusungulwe ngophenyo lwakamuva, uLacedelli noCompagnoni, ngaphambi kwalokhu kuhlasela, bathathe isinyathelo, ukusho ngobumnene, hhayi ngokuhlekisa nohambo olwenziwa noWalter Bonatti kanye nomqaphi wasePakistan uMahdi. Ngenkathi uBonatti noMahdi ngemizamo emikhulu beletha amasilinda oksijini ekamu elingenhla, uLacedelli noCompagnoni bamemeza ngodonga lweqhwa ukuze bashiye amasilinda bese behla. Njengoba kungekho tende, kungekho zikhwama zokulala, kungekho oksijini, uBonatti nomthwali wesibhakela kulindeleke ukuba bachithe ubusuku ekamu elingenhla. Esikhundleni salokho, bachitha ubusuku obunzima kakhulu emgodini weqhwa emthambekeni (uMahdi wamisa yonke iminwe yakhe), kwathi laba abashayayo ekuseni bafinyelela phezulu futhi behla njengamaqhawe. Ngokuphikisana nesizinda sokuhlonipha abanqobi njengamaqhawe esizwe, izinsolo zikaWalter ezithukuthele zazibukeka njengomona, kwathi emashumini eminyaka kamuva, uLacedelli wavuma ukuthi wayenephutha futhi wazama ukuxolisa. UBonatti uphendule wathi isikhathi sokuxolisa sesidlulile ...
Ngemuva kukaChogori, uWalter Bonatti wadumazeka ngabantu futhi wahamba imizila enzima kakhulu eyedwa
6. Nanga Parbat (8125 m, 9) nangaphambi kokunqotshwa kokuqala, kwaba ithuna labagibeli abaningi baseJalimane abalihlasela ngenkani ohambweni oluningi. Ukufika enyaweni yentaba kwase kuwumsebenzi ongathathi hlangothi usuka endaweni yokubuka izintaba, futhi ukunqoba kwakubonakala kungenakwenzeka.
Yeka ukumangala okwaba khona emphakathini okhuphukayo lapho ngo-1953 uHermann Buhl wase-Austrian anqoba i-Nanga Parbat eyedwa ngendlela ecishe ibe yi-Alpine (cishe elula). Ngasikhathi sinye, ikamu eliphezulu lalisethelwe kude kakhulu nale ngqungquthela - endaweni ephakeme ngamamitha ayizi-6 900. Lokhu kwakusho ukuthi laba bobabili ababevukela, uBul no-Otto Kemper, kwakudingeka bathole ama-1,200 m ukunqoba i-Nanga Parbat. UKempter wazizwa kabi ngaphambi kwalokhu kuhlaselwa, kwathi ngo-2: 30 ekuseni uBuhl waya engqungqutheleni eyedwa enokudla okuncane nempahla. Ngemuva kwamahora angu-17, wafinyelela enhlosweni yakhe, wathatha izithombe eziningana, waqinisa amandla akhe nge-pervitin (ngaleyo minyaka wayeyisiphuzo samandla ngokuphelele ngokomthetho), wabuyela emuva. Umuntu wase-Austrian uchithe ubusuku emile, kwathi ngo-17: 30 wabuyela ekamu elingenhla, wagcwalisa enye yezintaba ezivelele emlandweni wezintaba.
7. UManlu (8156 m, 8) akuyona isiqongo esinzima kakhulu sokuqwala. Kodwa-ke, isikhathi eside ukuyinqoba izakhamizi zendawo, ezazixosha abagibeli - ngemuva kokuba olunye lohambo lwehle i-avalanche, eyabulala abantu abangaba ngu-20 nabambalwa bendawo.
Izikhathi eziningana imikhankaso yamaJapan izama ukuthatha le ntaba. Njengomphumela womunye wabo, uToshio Ivanisi, ehambisana noSherpa Gyalzen Norbu, waba ngumnqobi wokuqala kaManaslu. Ukuhlonipha le mpumelelo, kwanikezwa isitembu esikhethekile sokuposa eJapane.
Abagibeli baqala ukufela kule ntaba ngemuva kokwenyuka kokuqala. Ukuwela emifantwini, ukuwela ngaphansi kwama-avalchi, kubanda. Kuyaphawuleka ukuthi abantu base-Ukraine abathathu bakhuphuka intaba ngesitayela se-Alpine (ngaphandle kwamakamu), kanti uPole Andrzej Bargiel akagcinanga ngokugijimela kuManaslu emahoreni ayi-14, kodwa futhi wehla esuka engqungqutheleni. Futhi abanye abagibeli abakwazanga ukubuya noManaslu bephila ...
U-Andrzej Bargel ubheka uManaslu njengethambeka lokushibilika eqhweni
8. I-Gasherbrum I (8080 m, 11) akuvamile ukuthi ihlaselwe abagibeli - isiqongo asibonakali kahle ngenxa yeziqongo eziphakeme ezizungezile. Ungakhuphuka isiqongo esikhulu seGasherbrum kusuka ezinhlangothini ezahlukahlukene nasemizileni eyahlukene. Ngenkathi esebenza kwenye yezindlela eziya phezulu, umgijimi ovelele wasePoland u-Arthur Heizer ushonele eGasherbrum.
AbaseMelika, ababa ngabokuqala ukubeka unyawo engqungqutheleni ngo-1958, bachaze ukwenyuka ngokuthi “sasivame ukugawula izitebhisi nokukhuphuka emadwaleni, kodwa lapha kwakudingeka sizulazule kuphela ngobhakha osindayo eqhweni elijulile”. Umqansa wokuqala kule ntaba nguPeter Schenning. UReinhold Messner odumile uqale wakhuphuka uGasherbrum ngesitayela se-Alpine noPeter Habeler, kwathi ngosuku olulodwa wakhuphuka bobabili uGasherbrum I noGasherbrum II bodwa.
9. Makalu (8485 m, 8) yidwala legranite elikhuphuka emngceleni weChina neNepal. Uhambo ngalunye lwesithathu kuphela oluba yimpumelelo (okungukuthi, ukukhuphukela phezulu okungenani komhlanganyeli oyedwa) eMakalu. Futhi abaphumelelayo nabo balahlekelwa. Ngo-1997, phakathi nomkhankaso onqobayo, amaRussia u-Igor Bugachevsky noSalavat Khabibullin babulawa. Eminyakeni eyisikhombisa kamuva, kwafa uVladislav Terzyul wase-Ukraine, owayekade enqobe uMakalu.
Abokuqala ukungena engqungqutheleni babengamalungu ohambo olwaluhlelwe umgibeli odumile waseFrance uJean Franco ngo-1955. AmaFrance ahlola udonga olusenyakatho ngaphambi kwesikhathi futhi ngoMeyi wonke amalungu eqembu anqoba iMakalu. UFranco ukwazile ukwenza zonke izithombe ezidingekayo phezulu, ukulahla ikhamera, eyehla ngomqansa. Isasasa lokunqoba lalilikhulu kangangokuba uFranco wanxenxa amaqabane akhe ukuthi ambeke phansi ngentambo, futhi wayithola ngempela ikhamera enezinhlaka eziyigugu. Kubuhlungu ukuthi akuzona zonke izehlakalo ezisezintabeni ezigcina kahle kangaka.
UJean Franco kuMakalu
10. UMatterhorn (4478 m) akusona esinye seziqongo eziphakeme kunazo zonke emhlabeni, kepha ukukhuphuka le ntaba enamacala amane kunzima kakhulu kunanoma iyiphi enye inkulungwane eziyisikhombisa. Ngisho neqembu lokuqala, elanyuka (ithambeka lama-degree angama-40 eMatterhorn libhekwa njengomnene) ukuya engqungqutheleni ngo-1865, alibuyanga liphelele - abantu abane kwabayisikhombisa bafa, kuhlanganise nomqondisi uMichelle Cro, owayehamba nomqali wokuqala u-Edward Wimper esiqongweni. Abaqondisi abasindile babesolwa ngokufa kwabagibeli, kodwa inkantolo yabakhipha phambili abasolwa. Sebebonke, bangaphezu kuka-500 abantu asebeshonile eMatterhorn.
